Anthony Bourdain’s Istanbul: A Tale of Two Perspectives, Five Years Apart
Blog Writer: Eda Özden Günyüz, Managing Director of MEP
Anthony Bourdain’s love affair with Istanbul was more than just about the food—it was about the city’s soul. Bourdain’s visits to the Turkish metropolis in 2009 and 2015 offer us two unique perspectives on a city that, while remaining deeply rooted in its history, was on the brink of massive change. In both his No Reservations and Parts Unknown episodes, Bourdain managed to capture Istanbul’s vibrant essence, its stories, and, most importantly, the people that make it so special.
The First Visit: Exploring the Heart of Istanbul
In January 2010, Bourdain’s No Reservations episode took him to Istanbul, though the episode was filmed in August/September 2009, right in the middle of Ramadan. Starting his journey with a simple yet profound breakfast at Rumeli Kale Cafe, Bourdain was introduced to the wonders of Turkish breakfast under the guidance of his host, Esra Yalçınalp. As he enjoyed bal kaymak, paçanga böreği, sucuklu yumurta, and the famous hellim kızartma, Bourdain was immediately drawn to the hospitality, warmth, and authenticity that define the Turkish spirit.
As Bourdain walked through the bustling streets of Nişantaşı, he shared a lahmacun with local artist Peter at Tatbak and later ventured out to explore the city’s lively İstiklal Street. Here, amidst the vibrant nightlife, he found himself indulging in et döner dürüm, ayran, and the infamous ıslak hamburger at Kızılkayalar—quick, satisfying street food that perfectly captured the city’s lively, unpretentious nature.
This first visit, though focused on food, was a window into the character of the city itself—one that balances tradition with modernity, where locals seamlessly blend the old with the new.
Istanbul: A City of People, Not Just Places
What both visits to Istanbul demonstrate more than anything else is that Istanbul is not defined by its landmarks or iconic monuments. Rather, it is shaped by the people who breathe life into the streets, the cafes, the markets, and the homes. From the welcoming locals at Rumeli Kale Café to the profound insights shared by Gündüz Vassaf, Bourdain’s love for Istanbul was always about the connections he made with its people.
Bourdain’s Istanbul was never just a city of stunning views or great food (though it certainly had both). It was a city of humanity—a place where stories are shared over çay, where the beauty of shared meals brings people from all walks of life together, and where the clash of cultures doesn’t divide, but enriches.
One of the standout moments from his second visit was when Bourdain shared a meal with Chef Ali from Ritz-Carlton and sampled sakatat (liver) at Senin Ciğerci. There, Bourdain reminded us that food is a bridge—a way to understand the deeper cultural nuances, even the ones that may be overlooked in everyday life. And in typical Bourdain fashion, he shared his unabashed curiosity with humor, whether it was about midye (mussels) at Karaköy or rakı with friends in Nevizade.
The Unmistakable Charm of Istanbul
There’s a reason why Istanbul has fascinated explorers, food lovers, and artists for centuries. Whether Bourdain was wandering the streets with Ihsan Bey, a local taxi driver, or enjoying a kebap feast at Zeyrek Sur Ocakbaşı, Istanbul never lost its ability to surprise and engage. Bourdain’s love for the city wasn’t just about the great meals (though they were fantastic); it was the deeper stories—the way food, culture, and the rhythms of the city come together to tell a bigger narrative.
In the end, Bourdain’s two visits to Istanbul—separated by five years—captured the timeless spirit of this incredible city. While the world around it changed, the essence of Istanbul remained the same: it was always about the people, the food, and the connections we make.
As Bourdain once said, “Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.” And in Istanbul, where simplicity meets complexity, it is never more true.
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